Monday, November 28, 2016

Fiambre

Since my time here in Guatemala, I have tried some euphemistically "interesting" foods - spaghetti tacos, pacaya, mineral water with Worcestershire sauce and lime- but none compare to the oddity that is fiambre. Fiambre is a traditional Guatemalan dish that is prepared to celebrate Día de los Santos (November 1). It typically contains over 50 ingredients, mostly a mix of different processed meats and pickled vegetables, and is served cold. Apparently this strange jumble of food originated from the tradition of taking dead family members their favorite dishes to lay on their graves. And after years of mixing and adding new ingredients, fiambre was born. Over the years, families began mixing all of these different foods together, probably to ease the burden of their trip to the cemetery. Because of this every family's recipe differs slightly, but all fiambre typically contains every type of sausage you can imagine (including a curious blue one), cold cuts, pickled baby corn and onion, beets, hard boiled eggs, and a variety of cheeses. The version that I was invited to prepare and eat with my work partner's family included the following:
-chopped parsley
-white wine vinegar
-capers
-pimientos
-pickled onions
-pickled asparagus 
-pickled Brussel sprouts 
-garlic
-shredded chicken 
-chorizo sausage
-linguiça sausage
-green beans
-salami
-ham
-peas
-carrots
-celery
-cauliflower
-beets
-cabbage
-mini gherkins
-Spanish olives
-radishes, quartered
-hard boiled eggs
-pacaya
-sardines and anchovies
-parmesan cheese
-sliced American cheese 

Plus I'm sure that I'm forgetting some others. All in all, I absolutely despise fiambre, especially day-old fiambre that has been sitting in its own juices. But I do admit that fiambre is yet another incredible example of the complex history and traditions of daily Guatemala. So if you ever get the chance, I say take a bite! 




Saturday, October 22, 2016

First World Guilt

When I was about 14, I had my braces taken off and for the full next week I could not stop passing my tongue over my newly unadorned teeth. Compared to the metallic, pokey surface of my braces, my liberated teeth felt overly smooth and slimy, as if I had a mouth of pure gums rather than modified bone. It may seem like a strange analogy, but this is exactly how visiting Guatemala City felt to me. Leaving the rough, sometimes prickly campo for the shiny and new capital city felt as if I had shed my braces in favor of a fresh, white smile. As we drove through the clean, un-littered streets lined with multi-level buildings, I stared at this brave new world with the same fascination and confusion as 14 year old Alexis compulsively licked her own teeth.   

                                      

Over this past weekend, a group of us volunteers were afforded the opportunity to visit the Forbidden City. (The capital is a Peace Corps red zone for various security reasons.) Armed with private transportation and two certified chaperones, we were graciously allowed to explore designated spots of the city like the true tourists we are. We visited the Popol Vuh and Ixchel museums, the Central Park, and an incredibly bourgie area of town called Cayala. In between destinations we were instructed to roll up the windows and lock the doors - in case a band of criminals decided to embark on a high-speed, cross-vehicle robbery of 10 broke Peace Corps volunteers Fast and Furious style. Based on Peace Corps rhetoric and the strict rules prohibiting us from entering the city, most of us were expecting Gotham. Instead we got a clean, bustling city with the occasional graffiti. But we weren’t brought to the areas that most locals would consider the real Guatemala City, we were brought to Cayala.

  

Walking through the polished streets of Cayala, I felt as if we had been dropped straight into The Truman Show and was physically affected by a feeling most travellers and international workers know well- the inherent pang of first world guilt.  Cayala would outshine the nicest areas of many American cities I’ve visited and the surrounding empty lots give it the creepy feeling of a constructed make-believe world. Looking around at the designer stores and classy restaurants nearly everything stood out in stark contrast from my life back in Itzapa. The cows and horses being led through the streets of Itzapa were replaced by giggly cherubs on bikes, their parents nowhere to be seen because there was nothing to be worried about in this land of perfection. The feces and trash that cake the streets of Itzapa were replaced by perfectly manicured cobblestone. And the hardworking, leathered men and women in Mayan traje were now posh families straight from an LL Bean catalogue. 

     

As I wandered around in complete bewilderment I couldn’t help but wonder what my host mom would make of this place. Would she look at the over-priced restaurants, artisan furniture stores, and boutique olive oil shops with admiration? Or would she spit on the spotless streets as if they personally affronted her and her poverty? Just being in Cayala made me feel guilty as if I was somehow betraying her and the women I work with. I wondered if they’d think less of me for spending what amounts to their monthly salary on two sushi rolls and a Sapporo. First world guilt, or at least my particular brand of it, I think is better characterized as embarrassment. I feel embarrassed by my choices – a 150Q sushi lunch over a 20Q comedor meal- and my ability to make those choices so readily. 


First world guilt, like any guilt derived from privilege, is a curious thing. It can make you stick your head in the sand and completely deny that you benefit from any distorted advantages: “I’ve worked hard for what I have!” (Yes, we know, but that doesn’t negate your privilege.) It can also lead you to do crazy things like become a vegan or give up your life at home for two years in the Guatemalan campo.  So is guilt a pointless, self-destructive emotion or is it an evolutionary psychological mechanism that drives us forward? Either way, I think that staying in touch with our guilt and understanding its roots is an important way to ensure that our actions are motivated by the desire for real progress and aren’t just a way to relieve our sense of embarrassment or shame. Guilt without action is pointless, but action doesn’t necessarily dissipate our guilt leaving us forever stranded on an infinite moving walkway of good deeds and empathy overload.  It’s a fate I feel personally doomed to and even trapped by, but am secretly grateful for the sense of purpose it’s given me.

Wednesday, October 5, 2016

Tis the Season

Slip back into the nostalgic past of middle school fairs, or if you’re from NOLA like me, crawfish boils. Food stands, death-defying rides (looking at you, Zipper), arts and crafts booths, and throngs of joyful families basking in the momentary bliss of funnel cake and raffle tickets. Now replace the foods you know with pupusas, fried chicken and tortillas, and all manner of meats being grilled on the plancha. Take the sweet, childish rides you once knew and exchange them for the same ones, just twenty years older, covered in rust, and plastered with caricatures of nearly naked, extremely bodacious women. And finally, multiply the crowds you’re used to by a factor of 5 and imagine inhaling an atmosphere composed entirely of B.O. and farts as you squeeze through a vast sea of seemingly unmoving people. Now you’re at a Guatemalan feria!


Currently, Guatemala is in feria season – a wonderful time where small towns and big cities get to leave behind their troubles and celebrate their home pride with gusto. Most ferias in Guate are a multi-day event that includes a parade, a concert, and of course the aforementioned fair scene. Intense crowds, the cries of vendors auctioning off their products, and the smells of fried foods are just some of the things you can expect to encounter at every Guatemalan feria. And let us not forget the Ferris Wheels of death. As rusted and rickety as they are, I can only imagine that they were retired from use in the States and sent to Guatemala for another few years of perilous diversion. It is impossible to describe fully the overwhelming blend of smells, sounds, and emotions one can experience in just an hour of feria.

   

Guatemalans celebrate the various patron saints of their hometowns by hosting these enormous parties around the days the saints first appeared to the Spanish colonists telling them to settle in the spots that hundreds of years later would become the towns I know and love today. Town members go all out to celebrate these metaphysical miracle makers. Town streets can be seen adorned with colorful decorations, churches hold elaborate mass ceremonies, families host large feasts, and nearly all governmental offices and services are temporarily shut down. Ferias are extremely important cultural and religious festivities in the lives of Guatemalans. They are dreamed about, planned for, and the focus of sentimental storytelling throughout the year. With their focus on history, religion, giving thanks, and enjoying the latest trends in music and pop culture, feria represents the past, present, and future all in one. The nuances that exist in each feria – the foods served, the products sold, and the colors used to embellish the streets – represent the identity and individuality of the place. All in all, feria is a time for drinking, eating, dancing, playing, and of course praying.

   

During my first year in Guatemala, I’ve had the pleasure of attending three ferias thus far: Xela (aka Quetzaltenango), Totonicapán, and San Miguel Dueñas. Within my first hour at Xela feria, I was robbed blind of nearly all of my valuables, including my phone, wallet, keys, and Twix bar. I want to be clear: it was awful. I felt dumb and helpless, and very lost and scared in a foreign city with no money and no means of communication. But it was also an incredible reminder of how fortunate I am to be surrounded by people that go above and beyond to look after me. I am forever indebted to my mom for wiring me money and canceling my cards, to my friends for buying all my food and drank, and to Don Rafael who offered to drive me three hours home in the pouring rain. You all remind me how truly beautiful the human experience can be.

                                                        

Other than that blip, my time at the three ferias was amazing! In Xela, I almost vomited on a crowd of unsuspecting Guatemalans as I raced towards death on a Ferris Wheel that likely reached speeds capable of breaking the sound barrier. In Totonicapán, I accidentally marched in the parade, lost and confused as I tried to find my way to the bus terminal. Let’s just say A LOT of people waved at us and they were probably laughing with us not at us. And I got to bring my indigenous host mom to Dueñas to celebrate feria there with my ladino host family. My time at feria has been a small, but extremely powerful look into the gorgeous complexities of Guatemalan life. Eating and blundering my way through the celebrations provided me a firsthand account of the true joy Guatemalans take in celebrating their history and religion. Talking to excited feria-goers opened up a world of fellowship, where no matter your origins we are all Guatemalans.  

Thursday, September 8, 2016

Black, White, And Everything In Between

This past week, I was fortunate enough to spend my days talking about diversity and inclusion with other volunteers and nearly every member of the Peace Corps staff, including our amazing gardeners, custodians, and shuttle drivers. The Intercultural Diversity and Inclusion workshop provided by Peace Corps Global was an incredible opportunity for me to witness how Guatemalans perceive and digest complex issues like privilege, race, and sexuality, but it also gave me a chance to introspect on my own experiences with these themes back in the U.S.

A common topic of discussion throughout the week related to Guatemalans’ grasp of the American identity. Many POC volunteers have found that Guatemalans are slower to accept their American citizenship when they’re not blonde and blue-eyed. The “typical gringo” is a highly valued volunteer, one that Guatemalan families can easily tote around town and say, “this is my American.” Meanwhile black, Hispanic, and Asian American volunteers are met with more confusion than excitement – that’s to say we’re not the typical American girls and boys they had pictured before our arrival. This idea of the white American as “the American” wasn’t invented by Guatemalans, but rather ingrained into their perception of the U.S. by American TV shows, movies, and media campaigns that still favor white-washing their characters over a truthful representation of the plentitude of shapes, sizes, and colors Americans come in.

As humans, we like to categorize and we tend to stick to this delineation of personas with a particular stubbornness. It’s the reason the media shows mug shots of black criminals, and even victims of crimes, and the school or family photos of white criminals. We have a very consistent idea of what it means to be white and black in America and we’re not ready to deviate from it, not ready to disassociate certain traits from our perceptions of an entire race or ethnicity. Because of this blackness and innocence, Islam and peace, Hispanic and legal, gay and manly, lesbian and effeminate, handicapped and athletic have become antithetical concepts in our minds. If you think I’m exaggerating, you probably don’t ascribe yourself to one of these communities. As a small testament, I offer you the stories Peace Corps staff members have shared with me of travelling in the U.S. to visit family, where they were called illegals and threatened with deportation. In the eyes of too many Americans, you’re either a fully integrated Latinx American who speaks English without an accent like me or an illegal immigrant. The idea of Latinx tourists in the U.S. may have never even occurred to you.

I can’t help but wonder what it is about us as human beings that leads us to favor this dichotomization of the individual experience so much. Why is it so hard to grasp that we are not just black or white, straight or gay, religious or atheist, good or bad? The idea of identity as an ever-moving point on a spectrum of spectrums is still incredibly obscure to most people I know, especially here in Guatemala. We struggle when we can’t clearly define another individual using a vocabulary based solely on our own experiences and perceptions. 

Here the most prevalent polarization of identity separates the ladinos, those of Spanish descent, from the indigenous Mayan populations. I had always heard of this division and see it regularly, but I wasn’t fully aware of it’s depth until I heard my ladino host family refer to my indigenous host family as “indios” – a highly derogative term in Guatemala. To address this division of identity, many Guatemalans have begun to refer to themselves as “mestizo” in place of “ladino” to indicate that no one is just one thing: we are all have a place on some sort of ethnic or racial spectrum.

I’ve come to realize that when you’re surrounded by like-minded individuals, you forget to challenge your perspective. I’m guessing that the reason my ladino host family feels comfortable using the word “indio” is because they’ve never truly spent time with someone who would be affected by it. They’ve lived their entire lives in their exclusively ladino community. Coming to Guatemala has forced me slice my perspective from the navel up and root around the guts of it. It’s caused me to reflect on the language I use, the beliefs I hold true, and how that impacts those around me. It’s also given me the opportunity to reflect on how others’ language and perceptions of me have affected my own personal growth and development.

When I was younger, my Cuban ethnicity was a huge source of both external and internal confusion. Many of my classmates asked me if I was white or black, never once considering that there were countless other options. Personally, I knew that I was Latina, but I didn’t have a strong grasp on what that meant. Somewhere along the line, I was led to believe that in order to identify as Latina American, I needed to have a harrowing tale of my family’s journey to the U.S. I used to regale my middle school classmates with the entirely fictional story of how my parent’s risked their lives to arrive in the U.S. after days on a broken down dinghy packed with Cubans ready to start their realization of the American dream. Their eyes met from across the 10-foot boat as the waves salted their hair and they instantly fell in love. In case you’re wondering, there’s not an ounce of truth to this story. Both of my parents were born on U.S. soil and my grandparents immigrated to the U.S. legally. The privilege of growing up white in America is that you’ve probably never struggled enough with your own identity to make up such an outlandish story. You probably haven’t been on the receiving end of pointed questions like, “what are you?” or “but like, where are you from from?”

There are days when these questions are easy enough to shrug off and laugh at, and there are days when these questions are as harmful as calling me a “spic” or any other derogatory term.  Fielding these questions is a constant reminder that, to you, I am different. You are forcing me to define myself by something that is more convenient for you than is true for me because if I answered, “I am an ambitious young woman with dreams of changing the world” I doubt you would leave it there.  You would push me to tell you my ethnicity so that you can comfortably place me in a box and move on.   

One of the Peace Corps’ most unique and demanding challenges is navigating your way through an entirely new society’s race relations and gender dynamics after spending your whole life conforming to America’s ideas of race and gender. This has been particularly true for me as a Latina still learning Spanish – many don’t understand why my Spanish isn’t perfect if I identify as Cuban. The incredible trick is to know, without a doubt, who it is you are and how you wish to be defined. From there you can start the type of necessary conversations about race, religion, gender, and sexuality. Guatemalans, and most Americans, aren’t accustomed to the idea that there can be so many choices when it comes to self-definition, and so they react with a confusion and misperception that can be easily taken as discrimination. The challenge of the Peace Corps volunteer is to find productive and culturally sensitive avenues of tackling these complex issues with host country nationals while forgiving their hurtful missteps. It isn’t easy and you will fail at times, but if personally demonstrating the sense of self to define yourself outside the convenient lines our societies have constructed inspires just one person to seek their own truth, then it’s worth the fight.